2023: Press review
Guide Bettane et Desseauve 2026
2 étoiles pour le Domaine
Mazis-Chambertin, 2023 – Note 93/100
Chambertin, 2023 – Note 95/100
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Lavaux, 2023 – Note 93/100
Gevrey-Chambertin – Champerrier, 2023 – Note 91/100
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Les Champeaux, 2023 – Note 92/100
Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru – Renaissance, 2023 – Note 92/100
Guide Hachette 2026
* Vin tres réussi
** Vin remarquable
Gevrey-Chambertin – Les Jeunes Rois, 2023 **
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, 2023 *
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Les Champeaux, 2023 *
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, 2023 **
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru, 2023 *
Vinous.com – Neal Martin – January 2025
2023 Chambertin Grand Cru
The 2023 Chambertin Grand Cru is aged in 90% new oak, which shapes the aromatics at the moment, though there is plenty of fruit to support taht. Hints of iodine and iris flower emerge with areration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, beautifully complete with very well integrated oak. harmonious with hints of sage and white pepper towards the finish, this is classy Chambertin from Tortochot. Superb. Drinking window : 2029-2050 – 96
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru contains 25% whole bunch. It as a delightful, precise and detailed bouquet whith raspberry and wild strawberry, the oak neatly assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky opening, lovely poise and harmony leading to a graceful finish with plenty of depth. Absolutely no complaints about the excellent Gevrey-Chambertin. Drinking window : 2028-2045 – 93
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes presents a pretty nose of redcurrant, wild strawberries, crushed stone and wilted rose petals. The medium-bodied palate opens with bright spice, offering real flesh and presence. Quite peppery on the finish, the Gevrey has substance and should age well in the bottle. Drinking window : 2028-2042 – 91
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Village
The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, containing 25% whole bunch, has an attractive nose with blackberry, raspberry and forest floor scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a freshy opening, but structure supports it and a pleasing touch of white pepper lingers on the aftertaste. A good, solid morey. Drinking window : 2027-2037 – 88
Domaine Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)
All these wines have been tasted in London during the burgundy en primeur tasting week in London in January 2025.
Gevrey 1er cru Lavaux st Jacques 2023 : 16.5/20
Cask sample.Rich, sweet and juicy. Extremely approachable even now on the nose but then on the palate there is just a little seam of inkiness running through it. Hint of violets. (H2VINS) (JR)
Chambertin grand cru 2023 : 17.5 /20
Smells like a rose garden. Quiet, insistent beauty. Dark sweetness of fruit. Thrumming undercurrent of energy and cool minimality. Really special (Goedhuis) (TC)
Morey St Denis 2023 : 16.5 /20
Smells wonderful. Earthy true, fluted. Really pure, singing gentle, the sweetest of fruit framed by something almost mycorrhizal fragrant (TC)
Gevrey Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes 2023 : 16.5/20
Also earthy, like the Morey st Denis. Like putting yours hands in the soil after the rain. Moss and decaying flowers and wild raspberries. Wonderfully rumpled tanins. The texture itself is beautiful.So much energy and enchanting elan (TC)
Gevrey 1er Cru Les Champeaux : 17/20
A kind of early morning fragrance, the smell of your fingers after picking strawberries at dawn. Loan and sweet leaves and warm sweet damp hay and baby oregano leaves. Delicate and yet strong.Like all these wines beautiful in a kind of haunting, evocative way (TC)
Domaine Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)
After a first life far away from the wine industry, Chantal Tortochot decided to take over her father’s winery at 35 after getting wine diplomas. 12 hectares (29 acres) of vineyards are part of the Domaine Tortochot with 10% of 1er Crus and 10% of Grands Crus. They are organic since 2013.
We highly enjoyed discussing with Chantal, the 4th generation, about he specific terroirs of Gevrey-Chambertin where the Domaine is located. We also had the luck to discover all the winemaking facilities and the incredible underground barrels cellars. While tasting the 2023, we could feel why the “climats” are so important. It was a very nice vintage with an amazing quantity of wine. So, you can compare, the Domaine produced an average of 45hL/ha in 2023 and 12 hL/ha in 2024!
Enough of numbers, let’s tatse!
Domaine Tortochot – “Cuvée Renaissance” 2023 – Morey-Siant-Denis 1er Cru
The nose offers a very nice, almost minty freshness. We have a beautiful fuit with the small morello cherry and the blackberry. We also perceive a hint of pepper and an imperceptible note of cigar in the background. The palate is pleasant, fresh and fruity with notes of pulpy strawberry and raspberry. We also perceive floral touches with rose. Pepper is also present, measured. The tannins are synonymous with finesse and the fnish is delicate. 16/20 (92/100)
Domaine Tortochot – “Lavaux St-Jacques” 2023 – Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
The nos is expressive, pretty with fruits such as juicy cherry. We also perceive hints of vanilla and a very light smokiness. We feel that the nose is crunchy, delicious. The palate has a lovely freshness and is floral at first glance. We notably have hints of violet. The mid-palate is fragrant and has notes of fruit such as cherry and raspberry. The tannins are fine, measured. The finish has a hint of vanilla. Beautiful wine. 16,5/20 (93/100)
Domaine Tortochot – “Les Champeaux” 2023 – Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
The nose is expressive with a beautiful definition of the fruit. We perceive notes of juicy morello cherries. There is a lovely freshness and gourmandise. The palate is fresh with red fruits such as morello cherry and raspberry. The tasting presents a pleasant and salivating measured acidity. the finish has a slight astringency contributing to the complexity. the end of the tasting is persistent with notes of cherry and raspberry still. 16,25/20 (92-93/100)
Domaine Tortochot – Charmes-Chambertin grand Cru 2023
The nose is beautiful, fresh and fruity with notably notes of juicy cherry. We also perceive light floral touches of violet. Little by little, the cocoa is revealed. The palate is fresh with supple tannins and a slight salinity of the terroir. It is a delicate wine with a beautiful finish of morello cherry and blackberry. 16/20 (92/100)
Domaine Tortochot – Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2023
The nose is powerful, floral with notes of fresh rose petals. We perceive crunchy forest fruits like raspberries. There is a touch of vanilla and an imperceptible note of smoke in the background. The palate is fresh with a note of toast at the attack. There is a beautiful fruitiness, a mix of black and red fruits such as blackcurrant, raspberry and juicu blackberry. There is a nice salivating freshness in the finish. 16+/20 (92-93/100)
Domaine Tortochot – Chambertin Grand Cru 2023
The nose is fresh and fruity with a fine note of potpourri. We have small, crunchy fuits like raspberries, and we even go for small blue fruits with a touch of blueberry. The palate is fresh with a nice acidity, and we find a mixture of small, crunchy black, red and blue fruits such as raspberry, juicy morello cherry and blueberry. The tannins are fine and precise. The finish is magnificent with a subtle note of coffee. The wine is a litle closed, a little more austere. It needs time and air to open. 16,25/20 (93/100)
The world of fine wine Burgundy 2023 by Sarah Marsh published in January 2025
Domaine Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)
I met with Marie Carminati, who trained as a winemaker but is not the winemaker here, so didn’t have all the answers. Maybe the winemaker is shy? Sylvian Pataille consults. Marie told me the winemaking approach never changes to adapt to the vintage, only the proportion of new oak. Also, that in 2023 the grapes were very clean and needed no sorting. Everything was destemmed, because space in the tanks was limited in the generously yielding harvest, which was apparently the largest since this domaine began in 1996. the grapes are chilled in the tank for a cold-maceration of five days at 25-26°C (77-79°F), using dry ice to speed the process. A touch of chaptalization here. The pHs are not high – I am told 3.6, after malolactic. The Charmes-Chambertin was overwhelmed by the 50% new oak, but the other grands crus coped well with 70%. Generally, the wines are very forward, expressive, and accessible young. Not rich. Light tannins in general. Slight herbal notes (despite the destemming); which are quite pleasant, and the wines are fresh enough.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection
Red-berry fruit, slightly floral aroma. It is pretty and has light and soft tannins. 2025-27.83
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Sentiers
One and a half barrels. Some herbal aromas. Pretty red fruit on the palate, with light, crisp tannin and a crunch. It has a crackly feeling to the finish. 2026-32.91
Morey-St-Denis
A blend of Chezeaux, Clos Solon, and Crais, this is bright and crisp, with red fruit and light tannin. Very expressive and delicately spicy. Charming MSD. 2025-30.87
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Aux Charmes
From a climat on the Gevrey border under Chezeaux. Soft and generous. Smooth tannins, easy summer fruits, and quite an aromatic finish. Forward and accessible. 2026-30.90
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Cuvée Renaissance
A blend of Clos des Ormes (0.17 ha [0.4 acre]) and Baulet (about 0.3 ha [0.74 acre]). A touch of five spice on the nose. Certainly spicy. Super, supple slide into the palate. A b=nice line of freshness under the ripe fruit and it flows through to a fresh finish. A gentle sweep. Exotic breath on the end. 2027-32.91-92
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux
Juicy, energetic fruit and plentifully ripe tannins. It has a light bite and grip, and a slightly chalky note under the palate, which attacks the finish. Exuberant. 2027-35.92-93
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux St-Jacques
A touch of tarragon on the nose, with white pepper. Sweet fruit strike. Straight and stremlined. Fine-textured tannins, with a little nip to them, while the finish is lightly salty and piquant, with red-currant fruit. exactly what you want from this climat. 2027-35.93
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Petite Chapelle
This is the first vintage of petite Chapelle, which comes from a tiny parcel, so the fruit disappeared into different cuvées preiously. Just a couple of barrels. Sweet, red-berry aroma, and on the palate, a gorgeous succulence of fruit and soft tannins. Rounded and inviting. It was a good move to make this separately. Smooth as ice cream, with juicy freshness on the end. 2027-35.93
Chambertin Grand Cru
From Chambertin (not Bèze) at the top by the forest. A straight, light, pure, lively, red-berry, silky Chambertin, with a fine line. refined and somewhat racy, but not especially long. 2027-25.93
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Succulent forest fruit, dark and spicy. Suede-smooth tannin and sumptuous fruit, with grand cru breadth and depth. On the finish, freshness and persistence. 2029-35.94-95
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Punchy, full-bodied, and burly; plentiful matter and slightly astringent tannin. It’s hefty and grunty. 2028-35.93
Burghound.com – January 2026
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois” (from Brochon)
There is better layering to the ripe aromas of both red and dark wild berries along with more obvious earth and sauvage wisps. The delicious, suave and vibrant flavors are also quite supple on the denser mid-palate before tightening up noticeably on the more complex and persistent finale. Even so, this should also be reasonably approachable on the younger side. 88/2029+
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées” (from a .86 ha parcel)
Wood and moderate reduction overshadow the fruit today so be sure to give this some air if you’re going to try a bottle young. More interesting are the bigger, richer and more voluminous flavors that also possess a suave texture while exhibiting good length on the balanced finale. The reduction on the nose notwithstanding, this is a quality Gevrey villages and worth considering. 89/2030+
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes” (from a .46 ha parcel)
This is also mildly reduced with enough wood lurking in the background to mention. The old vines are in evidence as there is very good density and volume to the medium-bodied flavors that flash focused power that carries over to the youthfully austere, firm and well-balanced finale. This is also quite good and though it could use better depth, that’s what bottle aging is for. 89/2031+
2023 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance” (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes)
A discreet if still easily perceptible dollop of wood frames ripe yet airy and pretty aromas of primarily various red berries, discreet spice and floral nuances. The succulent, round and delicious middle weight flavors once again possess a caressing mouthfeel while displaying perfectly good if not distinguished depth and persistence. To enjoy after 5 to 8 years of cellaring. 89/2030+
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaux St. Jacques” (from a .64 ha parcel)
A brooding nose only grudgingly reveals its wild dark berry aromas laced with earth, forest floor and smoky hints that are trimmed in subtle wood influence. There is very good volume to the plump, round and delicious medium weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the lightly austere and markedly firmer finale. LSJ always age well and this is going to need close to a decade of time to reach its apogee. 90/2032+
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines)
Slightly more prominent wood influence still easily allows the ripe and vaguely liqueur-like aromas of red and black currant and more subtle earth and sauvage nuances to be appreciated. There is slightly better volume and mid-palate density to the utterly delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that exude a more subtle bead of minerality on the detailed and sneaky long finale. This is also going to need most of a decade to arrive at its full maturity. 91/2032+
2023 Charmes-Chambertin (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper)
Here too there is enough wood present framing the ripe yet airy, elegant and perfumed essence of red cherry and earth scents to notice. The very supple and quite forward middle weight flavors that aren’t particularly concentrated though they do offer a highly attractive texture before terminating in a dusty, lightly austere and moderately firm finale. While this is also capable of repaying up to a decade of keeping, it should be reasonably approachable after only 4 to 5 years of aging. 92/2032+
2023 Mazis-Chambertin (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Bas)
Once again, enough wood to merit pointing out is present on the more deeply pitched and more sauvage-inflected dark berry fruit, spice and floral-scented nose. The wood can also be found on the palate of the denser and more powerful, as well as more mineral-driven, flavors that are shaped by firm but fine tannins on the lingering finish where a mildly curious touch of sweetness slowly emerges. 92/2034+
2023 Chambertin (from a .39 ha parcel)
More subtle, though hardly invisible, oak influence can be found on the cooler nose of the essence of wild red currant, underbrush and, much like the LSJ, a smoky hint. The sleeker, though not denser, middle weight flavors brim with evident minerality while displaying excellent delineation on the lightly austere and impressively persistent finale. As with any competent example of Chambertin, it’s going to need time in bottle and in particular in this case, time to develop better depth. 92/2034+
2023 Clos de Vougeot (from a .21 ha parcel)
Here the more restrained nose of black cherry and raspberry is much less floral and much earthier though the wood treatment remains prominent. The rich and moderately full-bodied flavors possess a more robust though still attractive texture before culminating in a caressing but even more powerful and firmer youthfully austere finale that exhibits fine length. This is clearly constructed to repay extended keeping yet it’s not so compact that it couldn’t be approached after 6 to 8 years. 93/2036+
2023 Morey St. Denis (mostly from Clos Solon)
There is a whiff of herbal tea character floating in the background of the ripe red berry and earth-scented nose. The very supple and not especially dense flavors do possess a caressing a succulent texture before concluding in a sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This competent effort should drink well after only a few years of keeping. 88/2028+
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
This is expressly lightly vinified to drink well young. A slightly riper nose freely reveals its aromas of red currant, warm earth and soft wood nuances. The exceptionally supple and easy-going flavors also possess an attractive texture if limited depth on the otherwise balanced and persistent finish. This is certainly pretty but it’s not deep. To enjoy young. 87/2027+
Notes and scores
- 2023 Chambertin Grand Cru – red – 92
- 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru – red – 92
- 2023 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru – red – 93
- 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes – red – 87
- 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er Cru – red – 91
- 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes” – red – 89
- 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées” – red – 88
- 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois” – red – 90
- 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaux St. Jacques” 1er Cru – red – 92
- 2023 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru – red – 88
- 2023 Morey St. Denis – red – 89
- 2023 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance” – red – 89
