2021 : La revue de presse
burghound.com Allen Meadows Janvier 2024
2021 Bourgogne – Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection red – 86
2021 Chambertin Grand Cru red – 93
2021 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Sentiers” 1er Cru red – 91
2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru red – 92
2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru red – 92
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes red – 88
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er Cru red – 90
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes” red – 89
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin «Les Corvées» red – 88
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin \ »Les Jeunes Rois\ » red – 89
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin «Lavaut St Jacques» 1er Cru red – 92
2021 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru red – 93
2021 Morey Saint Denis red – 88
2021 Morey St Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance” 1er Cru red – 90
2021 Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes” 1er Cru red – 90
Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine that is now ECO certified, briefly described the 2021 growing season as one that “definitely tested our nerves almost from start to finish. We obviously had the spring frost drama where it snowed and melted followed by temperatures that descended to between -3° and -5°C. We prune late, which of course helped mitigate the damage but it didn\’t eliminate and the vines were slow to recover and gain vigor. As if that wasn\’t enough, art of Gevrey was hit by hail on the 9th of June along with a serious attack of mildew shortly thereafter. In short, if you weren\’t constantly in your vineyards treating, you were losing crop daily. On the plus side, the flowering passed quickly, which is almost a good thing for homogenous ripening. As we approached the harvest, the skins of the berries began to thin and this allowed botrytis to attack so we were caught between the need to pick quickly versus the need to allow the final ripening process to play out. Another positive is this regard was that the North Wind began to blow, xhich definitely helped control the botrytis. I waited to begin the harvest until the 18th of September, which I believe was a good compromise under the circumstances. While there was certainly some sorting necessary, it was frankly less than I expected. Yields weren\’t high but with the frost and hail, I was happy with the 22 hl/ha that we averaged. I used between 15 and 20% for the vinifications and because it was clear from the beginning that the wines were going to be super-transparent. I also chose to reduce the amount of new wood during the elevage. Overall, wine quality is better than i had hoped and the style is classic with good but not high acidities. They should drink well young for their vibrant and super-fresh fruit while not being unduly austere but should also have the capcity to age well too as they\’re very well-balanced\ »
2021 Bourgogne – Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection: Exuberantly fresh red pinot fruit aromas are laced with hints of earth and herbal tea. The lively and ulterly delicious flavors process a relatively refined mouthfeel while delivering good if not special depth and persistance. To enjoy young for its fruit. 86/now+
2021 Morey St. Denis: (mostly from Clos Solon). This is aromaticaly similar to the Bourgogne but there is slightly better volume and mid palate density to the attractively textured flavors that offer better depth and persistance. While this could alsoeasily be enjoyed young. I would suggest holding for a few years first. 88/2026+
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes: There is a whiff of sauvage character to the airy red currant and forest floor-suffused aromas. The supple and delicious medium weight flavors process good underlying tension that continues onto the detailed, midly austere and sneaky long finish. I very much like the mouthfeel as it\’s refined to the point of being almost silky. 88/2026+
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: (from Brochon). A slightly riper and more deeply pitched nose combines notes of red and dark cherry with newly turned earth and green tea nuances. There is better volume and richness to the medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle bead of minerality and the more complex and slightly more persistent finish. Worth a look. 89/2027+
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: (from a .86 ha parcel). Moderate reduction is enough to warrant a thorough aeration if you\’re going to try a bottle young. Otherwise, there is fine volume and punch to the delicious middleweight flavors that display touches of rusticity and younthful austere on the lingering finish that is structured enough to suggest that 5 to 8 years of keepin should about right. 88/2027+
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”: (from a .46 ha parcel). A very pretty and ultra fresh nose is comprised by its aromas of the essence of wild red berries, forest floor and a prominent dollop of herbal tea component. The heightensed freshness continues onto the solidly dense medium-bodied flavors that also exude evident minerality on the attractively textured, balanced and lingering finale. I like this but I would point out that the herbal tea character displayed by the nose isn\’t subtle and may be more than some readers prefer. 89/2028+
2021 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). The expressive and perfumed nose freely offers up an array of the essence of red cherry, green tea and a discreet application of wood. The vibrant middleweight flavors possess a l lilting mouthfeel thanks to the ultra-fine tannins shaping the vibrant finale where the only nit is a hint of warmth. Note that this could easily be enjoyend on the younger side. 90/2029+
2021 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance”: (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes). This is also aromatically quite pretty if perhaps not quite as elegant as the Charmes as it too features spicy red berry and green tea scents. There is more power if not the same refinement to the medium weight flavors that conclude in a lingering and nicely complex if midly rustic finale. 90/2030+
2021 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Sentiers”: (100% whole cluster vinification). A marked floral-suffused and more restrained nose reflects notes of various red berries, green tea, and plum scents that are trimmed in just enough oak influence to mention. Once again there is a really lovely texture to the mdeium-bodied flavors that possess a bit more weight along with a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, youthfully austere and moderately firm finale. lovely. 91/2031+
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .64 ha parcel). A much less expressive, indeed brooding, nose is comprised by notes of both red and dark currant, humus-tinged earth, game and a whiff of herbal tea. There is excellent volume to the bigger-bodied, rich and more powerful flavors that possess slightly better depth and persistence as well. Good stuff and a wine that should repay a decade plus a keeping. 92/2031+
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). Here too there is enough reduction to warrant a thorough aeration. On the palate there is again fine volume and richness with equally good power to the medium weight flavors that conclude in a moderately rustic and slightly warm finale. 90/2031+
2021 Charmes-Chambertin: (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). Discreet but easily perceptible wood frames bright and pretty aromas of mostly wild red berries, earth and spiced green tea. Ther is both good volume and underlying vibrancy to the delicious middleweight flavors that possess a relatively refined mouthfeel, all wrapped in a persistent, balanced and bitter pit fruit-inflected finale. this could be enjoyed young but it also has the stuffing to repay a decade plus of cellaring. 92/2031+
2021 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in mazis-haut). Moderate wood is present on the spicy and sauvage-suffused aromas of red currant, dark cherry and a hint of just turned earth. The wood can also be found on the palate of larger-scaled flavors that possess evident power and a taut muscularity on the firm, serious and austere finale where the wood reappears. This is cartainly promising but will need at least a few years to better integrate the oak tratment as it sticks out somewhat today. 93/2033+
2021 Chambertin: (from a .39 ha parcel, 100% new wood). Here too moderate wood sets off distinctly cool and relatively high-toned notes of red currant, green tea, earth, humus and hints of leather and violet. The dense, impressively powerful and focused large-scaled flavors brim with minerality that carries over to the compact, austere and serious finish where a hint of green tea character slowly emerges. 93/2033+
2021 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). This is aromatically similar to the Chambertin but with more floral elements. There is a lovely richness and concentration, if less refinement, to the larger-bodied, serious and solidly powerful flavors that brim with dry extract culminating in a lingering and youthfully austere though curiously sweet finish. the sweetness may not last but for the moment, this is somewhat atypical. 92/2033+
Gevrey Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes 2021
Les vieilles vignes lui donnent une concentration inhabituelle dans le millésime, il finit onctueux, large en bouche. 92/100
Gevrey 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2021 2 étoiles
Un 1er Cru situé au nord du village, à la limite avec la commune de Brochon, où le domaine dispose de 81 ares de vignes de 50 ans. Avec ses tanins élégants, fins et friands, cette cuvée s\’inscrit bien dans la typicité de ce coteau de l\’appellation. Son expression aromatique intense évoque avec fraicheur les fruits rouges. Un élévage de 15 mois en fût a apporté de délicates notes boisées et une belle finale sur le fruit conclut la dégustation. Un grvrey spontanément plaisant et qui saura vieillir harmonieusement.
Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin 2021 2 étoiles
Le domaine cultive 57 ares dans le lieu-dit Mazoyeres au sud du Climat. Si le millésime 2021 n\’a globalement pas donné des vins particulièrement concentrés, ici le terroir révèle tout son potentiel : la matière se montre ample, puissante et longue en bouche. Des notes de fruits rouges, de fruits secs et des nuances florales forment un bouquet qui gagnera en intensité au vieillissement. Une cuvée élevée 15 mois en fût qui s\’affirme comme l\’uine des belles réussites de cette année souvent qualifiée \ »de vigneron\ ». Une expression illustrant les efforts qu\’il était nécessaire de consentir pour obtenir de beaux raisins.
Gevrey Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles vignes 2021 1 étoile
Des vignes plantées dans les années 1920 par Felix Tortochot, grand-père de Chantal Michel-Tortochot, ont donné naissance à cette cuvée. Ce 1er Cru réputé donner des vins puissants ne faillit pas à sa réputation, même dans un millésime compliqué comme 2021. Ample, solide, intense, il évoque des nuances de fruits noirs et un boisé bien intégré. Du caractère et du potentiel.
Burgundy Report – From Bill Nanson – Vintage 2021 – 18/08/2023
Chantal on the 2022:
« I’m happy with 2022. We are helped by the big rain in June witch got us through the rest of the dry weeks that followed! »
Chantal on the 2021:
« Since July last year we started bottling the 2021, finishing whith the grand crus in March. What a vintage! The winter, then came the black frost came after much warmer weather and because it visited us on three consecutive nights of cold and damp – the damage was done – the only really effective way to guard against the frost seems to be with later pruning and tying-down the branches much lmater – but it\’s hard with our maximum 36 hours per week of work to do the extra amount of work needed to finish late! I say late but my fater always used to finish in March – we finish in fabruary today but we are doing a (later) second prune – we leave to \’eyes\’ on the ca before returning to cut to the last 4 when we attach the canes to the wines. But 2021 was still a case of more than 40% losses – I made double in2022! – but still only just over 40 hl/ha. 2017 was our last \’correct\’ volt 2021 was a year with not mutch sun versus those vintages that surround it but it was still ripe – we\’ve gain degrees in 30 years – since the time of my father – that\’s why you no-longer find the sacks of sugar in the supermarkets! »
The wines :
The domain has used plenty of new oak in 2021 – but it\’s been beautifully integrated – i don’t mention it in yhe notes if it doesn’t stick out!. I’ve not often visited the domaine because I\’ve usually been disappointed whith the pre-bottled wines – versus post-bottled where I’ve really liked them. So I visited later with, as you can see, positive results!
2021 Bouroggne Pinot Noir
In Gevrey’s Grand Champs and organic since 2013 « The same soil as and subsoil as the surrounding villages-rated plots. »
Medium colour. Fresh, slightly cushioned red fruit. Good width, with a red fruit intensity the finish is direct and fresh.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
About 10 different parcels – on the flats on the other side of the route nationale – but 70% losses vs the usual production here. Red fruit again, faintly spiced. The panorama of lavours is impressive – red fruit with a faint gentian accent but also a vibrancy of mouthwatering finishing energy.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles-Vignes
A more cushioned red fruit nose. In the mouth there\’s a fuller, more cushioned chape too – always red fruit, a slight but attractive finishing bitters note too.
2021 Morey St.Denis 1er Aux Charmes
Fine, delicate red fruit a certain shyness but still direct and becoming perfumed. Generous flavour again, framed with a fine, ripe tannin – that\’s a delicious wine – lovely!
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
A parcel low on the billside – \’it\’s still a cold place with the wind from the Combe\’. A cool but very pure red fruit width. Ooh – athletic muscle, fluid, good concentration – great texture – that\’s a simply excellent wine!
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champaux
The most northern of the Gevrey 1ers – there\’s more chay here.
An extra, more fleshy ripeness to this red fruit – still with a fine clarity of fruit and some perfur too. There\’s salinity too – \’yes that\’s from the stems.\’ That\’s a wine that I\’d wait a short time to balance out but it\’s energetically delicious and really complex!
2021 Charmes-Chambertin
60 year-old wines. From Charmes….
Ooh – that\’s very perfumed – faintly of roses – lovely. There\’s a faint grain of tannin framing the flavours but the core is vivid and has a little generosity about it. To keep 5 years but I\’m sure it will be open, beautifully.
2021 Mazis-Chambertin
From the bottom – there\’s a plaque with the domaine\’s name on it there…80% new oak.
The nose is showing a hint of its oak spice but nothing more of the barrel – the air combines to lift perfume from the glass. More structural – but the flavour melts over the plate – I\’d happily carafe this today and enjoy. A really lovely, suble finish but oh-so long…
Vinous – Tasted by Neal Martin during Roi Chamberting tasting in Novembre 2022
Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier 2021
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru has another quite \ »airy\ » but well-defined nose: red cherries and crushed strawberry, touches of crushed stone and gravel. The palate is well balanced with fine-boned tannins – what I appreciate here is the tension and edge towards the finish. Worth seeking out. Drink 2024-2036 – (90-92)
Jancis Robinson MW – Tasting in London during the Burgundy 2021 en primeur – 12 january 2023
Dom Tortochot 2021 Morey-St-Denis
Pale garnet. Just a little muddy on the nose. Solid but earthbound. Drink 2026 – 2036 – 16
Dom Tortochot, Champerrier Vieilles Vignes 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
Some sweetness and some delicacy – what\’s not to like?! Real energy here. Very forward. Very long. I could enjoy this tonight – almost worryingly so. Drink 2024 – 2036 – 16,5
Dom Tortochot, Aux Charmes Premier Cru 2021 Morey-St-Denis
Cask sample. Palet garnet. Ther\’s a little bit of grunt here. Lots of nuance to enjoy. It definitely tastes of Morey with that gypsy-cream biscuit plus orange-peel flavour. Good balance and flattering with some spine too. Drink 2026 – 2042 – 17
Dom Tortochot, Lavaut St-Jacques Premier Cru 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
Cask sample. A bit more spindly and lean that the Morey Aux Charmes Premier Cru, oddly. Rather dry on the finish. Could come right in the end…? Drink 2027 – 2040 -16.5
